What Happened to Abercrombie & Fitch?

Remember, back in middle school, when all the popular kids were wearing Abercrombie & Fitch? A&F used to be the "it" brand, and in fact, back in the day it was very preppy. If you don't believe me, just check out Lisa Birnbach's The Official Preppy Handbook from 1980. It's no longer in print, but you can still find some used copies online if you search for it.

Anyway, here's a brief history lesson: A&F was founded in 1892 by David Abercrombie and Ezra Fitch in Manhattan. Abercrombie & Fitch was an elite outfitter of sporting goods, including: pricey shotguns, tents, and fishing rods. Very preppy. In 1976, the brand filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, and the flagship store in Manhattan closed in 1977. The brand, at that time, was very similar to still preppy L.L. Bean.

In 1978-79, Oshman's Sporting Goods bought the Abercrombie & Fitch name, and their mailing list. A&F was now a mail-order store for hunting wear and novelty items. It also opened stores in Beverly Hills, Dallas, and New York City. The brand was sold to its third owner, The Limited, in 1988.

Now the brand is clothing-only, mainly worn by guidos, preteens, and high schoolers--although their target audience is 18-22 year olds. A big shift in the clientele occurred through the brands advertising: they primarily use photographer Bruce Weber. The style is slightly racy, using gray-scale photos, usually taken in outdoor settings, featuring models who are semi-nude.

The brand has been accused of promoting the sexualization of preteen girls by marketing thongs to 10-year-olds and padded bikini tops to 7-year-olds. It has also gone through lawsuits for discrimination in their hiring. The in-store costumer service reps (called "models") were recruited to work based solely on their looks (primarily they were Caucasian), and they used to have to buy (out of their own pocket) A&F clothing to wear while working.

So, where did the brand go so astray in the prep world? My opinion is the marketing. Going for the hardcore sex appeal is not in line with preppy traditions. Compare Abercrombie & Fitch's marketing to Vineyard Vines or Brooks Brothers. Anyone can see the difference immediately. Preppy women want to feel, and look, classy and sophisticated; the men want to look dapper and refined. The two images simply no longer coincide.

To further drive this point home, just take a look at MTV's Jersey Shore. Many of the characters wear the Abercrombie & Fitch label as they go to night club's, and other places, while getting sloppily drunk, and looking for meaningless sex. The brand has now adopted that image, despite it's preppy, outdoor roots.

And that's what happened to Abercrombie & Fitch.